'Plastic bag' is the widest description of all, and it is the one most likely to hide a problem - because several things people call plastic bags will not heat seal at all.
The machines here are the same family as every other page in this cluster: impulse or band, in hand, foot, table top or continuous format. What this page is really about is the material, because that is what decides whether any of them will work for you.
Heat sealing works by melting two surfaces so they fuse into one. That requires the inside faces of the bag to be a thermoplastic that melts at a temperature the machine reaches, and not everything sold as a plastic bag qualifies.
Polythene in its usual forms - LDPE and HDPE - is the easiest material there is. Almost any bench sealer will close it, and the only real decisions are thickness and width.
Polypropylene bags seal too, though they generally want a slightly different setting and are less forgiving if the time is too long. Most laminated pouches used for food have a sealant inner layer chosen precisely so they will close on machines like these.
Being clear about this saves wasted purchases, and it is the reason we ask for a sample rather than a description.
The bags handed out at exhibitions and shops that look like cloth are usually non-woven polypropylene. Some grades will heat seal and some will not, and it depends on the grade rather than the appearance.
If this is what you are packing, a sample is not optional - it is the only way to answer the question.
Once the material is settled, the choice is the same as anywhere else in this cluster: seal length longer than your widest bag, and a format that matches your daily count and whether the bag needs both hands.
Send the bag width measured flat, a sample or photograph of the material, and your daily count, and the recommendation follows from those three.
You do not need a machine to find out whether your bag will heat seal. There is a rough test anyone can do in five minutes, and it will tell you which conversation you are having.
Take two pieces of the bag material, lay them together, put a sheet of baking paper over them so nothing sticks to the iron, and press a household iron on a low setting across them for a couple of seconds. If they fuse into one and tear as a single piece when pulled, the material is thermoplastic and a sealing machine will close it. If they peel apart cleanly, or scorch without joining, it will not, or it needs far more heat than a bench machine gives.
It is not a substitute for sending a sample, and it will not tell you the right setting - an iron has none of the control a machine has. What it does is tell you within minutes whether you are shopping for a heat sealer at all, before anybody quotes you one.
If the test is ambiguous, that itself is useful information: ambiguous materials are exactly the ones we ask to see before quoting.
Not a plain woven sack - those are stitched or closed with a bag closer. A woven sack with a laminated liner is a different case; send a sample.
It depends on the grade rather than the look. Send a sample - there is no honest answer from a description.
Heat sealing needs something that melts. Paper bags are closed by other means, and we will tell you so rather than sell you a machine for it.
Your bag supplier will tell you, and a sample settles it in any case. Post us a few empties with the enquiry.
Roughly, yes - press two layers together under baking paper with a household iron on a low setting. If they fuse into one piece, a machine will seal them. Send us a sample either way.
The width of your widest bag measured flat, what the bag is made of, and how many you seal in a day. That is enough for a straight answer — including the times when the cheaper machine is the right one.
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